NorCon! (NB: I am an area admin on NorCon, so grain of salt.)
NorCon has three areas, all active, with solid leadership, each with a different kind of 'feel'. We're player administrated, and that tends to work pretty well: we have the freedom to make things happen, without the constraints same games face with wizards who aren't really involved anymore. I love it because: lots of really good RP, room for character development as well as larger scale plots, the code is all up-to-date and logical, and the people are sane.